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My Feedback: (3)

I have a brand new DA60 bought a few years back. It was installed on a WM 50cc Commander along with KS tuned pipe.
On second flight (breaking in) the engine quit in midflight and bearly made it back to the runway hitting my LG. although Repairs were minimal, it took quite a long time to have the chance to try this plane again.
Last week we had a very rough time trying to start the engine and it was impossible to tune. We found out that spark plug was loose after removing the cowl.
Engine was then tested and seemed to work properly after setting the needles (much more open than stock settings). I did not fly that day as it was already dark.

This past weekend I refitted the cowl and tried to fire the DA60 but it would not. We had to put a few drops of fuel inside the carb and use the starter to have it fire.
No matter what we did it would quit passed the 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] of throttle stick.
Again cowl was removed, and High needle opened a 1/8th of a turn at a time to reach generously approximately 3 turns. Engine was started but here again it would go to full throttle but when stick was brought down to half throttle it would quit.

Appreciate if you would be able to suggest a few steps to make knowing that due to the fact that I am living in Beirut Lebanon, it would be quite expensive to have the engine sent over to DA for checking.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Like any Walbro carb equipped engine that would exhibit those symptoms, it probably needs new diaphragms in the carburetor. I'd get a rebuild kit and have at it. The needles being out from normal is a major clue there is a fuel problem. From there, be sure to check the whole fuel system from tank to carb.

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My Feedback: (3)

Truckracer.

Thanks for your suggestion. Forgot to mention that my body informed me that ignition was not giving the "click" sound while rotating the prop slowly...
Could this also be an indication of some sort on the difficulty to start this engine??
I own many DA engines from 50cc to the 170cc and never ever had an issue with any of them. in fact I don't Remember ever having to tune any of them or at least having an issue getting the best of them...

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Not sure about what you're saying about the ignition. DA ignitions require the prop be flipped briskly to produce a spark (I believe the 35 ignition is an exception) so rotating the prop slowly probably wouldn't produce a spark.

If you feel there is an ignition problem, you have parts on those other DA engines that could be swapped out on the 60 do prove the 60 ignition is good or bad.

kmeyers

Something I look at if the needles seem to need opening is the screen on the pump side of the carb.

Meschmidt

My Feedback: (15)

Sounds like the ignition sensor has gone bad.

extra 300

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for your input. I have a brand new DA85 presume I could use the ignition module on my 60?
One other thing, through the various readings I had there was a recurrent information stating that "timing should be fully retarded" how can I verify the position and how to achieve same?

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

The 85 and 60 use the same sensor and ignition. There is mixed info regarding timing on the 60. Some of the early ones exhibited excessive vibration with normal timing and the vibration was reduced a bit by retarding the timing a bit. The engines ran fine at either setting. You can retard the timing by moving the sensor farther to the right (CCW) as viewed from the front of the engine. Just move the sensor within the confines of the adjustment slots and usually the movement allowed is very small.

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My Feedback: (3)

Truckracer,

Thank you for your input. In fact my DA60 is from early production as I bought it back in 2011 (if I recall well). I will start by checking Fuel tank, then carb and will check ignition/timing as per your suggestion. Will do steps one at a time trying to sort out problem

Thanks again

Regards,

wing13z

extra 300

My Feedback: (3)

Unfortunately no. Worst part is that Desert aircraft has not been replying to my numerous emails and I really don't know what to do as I live overseas.... I also own 10 other DA engines and have clearly stated this to them....

Rgds

planenutzz

clean the micro screen in the carby, flush out jets and orifices with throttle body cleaner, you can get a pressure can from most auto parts stores.
Fit a carby kit with new diaphragms etc ensuring the needle fork is located into the diaphragm correctly.
Re-set needles to about 1-1/2 turns for low, 2 turns for top.
Tune low end first then top. There are tuning guides online, google them.

erik58

My Feedback: (4)

Check the height of the metering arm height that could be a problem. Just a thought

extra 300

My Feedback: (3)

my engine is brand new, only had one hectic flight. on second flight engine quit and since then I had the problems. Nevertheless, I went through cleaning the carb and changed diaphragm etc...
No matter what I tried still having problems...

Whiskey Bravo

My Feedback: (31)

I have seen and read about similar issues with the DA 60. The problem can be the circuitous route used for the carb pulse through the reed block where a gasket or something else can cause a partial blockage. The way I and others have resolved this issue is to drill a hole in either the engine block or reed block and install a pressure tap and route to the carb for pump pulse as is the case for example with the DA50. Problem solved.

dubs1946

The first thing i check is electrics before the carb. No spark or intermittent spark could be your problem. You work by ilimination electrics first. Squirt some 2 sroke starter fluid into the plug hole also onto the plug. 2 sroke starter fluid is mostly ether. If it does not go when using a starter you have no spark it should fire and burn the starter fluid then go from there. Naturraly you have a good battery, Blocked filter in the carb or fuel line. Work by ilimination. 2 stroke gas engines are very simple engineering. Let us know if you find the problem.

extra 300

My Feedback: (3)

The problem is not starting the engine, but tuning instead is almost impossible, engine is quitting above 1/2 throttle and when opening needles way off, I can reach an extremely unreliable full throttle way below the peak. I would gladly send it back to DA but they are not even replying to my emails...

planenutzz

Sounds like a blockage to me, check the micro filter, clean it in acetone till it is clean and you can see through it, many chuck it away. Flush all opening and orifices using a can of carby cleaner.
Fit a new diaphragm and ensure the valve needle fork arm is seated correctly.

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

I fully agree. The micro-screen is right on the inside of the fuel-inlet passage.. When you remove that side of the carb, that screen is so fine, it looks like a softplug... and on the other side is the main fuel inlet.

We have a chemical here in the U.S. called B-12 ChemTool, which is a solvent, and it comes in a few types.. pressurized can is the best.. and it will blow out and clean even the smallest orifice in those carbs.. and it's very good at blasting out those micro screens too and making them like new. It seriously sounds like it's starving for fuel, and that screen we're talking about can block and hinder fuel flow when it's even remotely clogged.

Don't think just because that engine is "new" that it's not susceptible to such things. All it took was for that carb to get fuel through it one time years ago, and that could start that screen to clogging... especially if it's stored for long periods. You can't just start an engine, put it away for 5yrs, pull it out and expect to be like new(I'm really not saying you did that..but just sayin'). Sometimes you don't even need to start them... as the assembly and oils used can simply start coagulating if left for years. I'd be very suspicious of that screen, just as Planenutzz is.