Painting an arf (Oracover)
01-16-2017, 05:37 PM
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Painting an arf (Oracover) Phoenix Models P-40
Just received my Phoenix Models 80" P-40.
They chose to cover it in silver which is an authentic scheme but was only used on a few factory full scales. I'm seriously considering painting it before assembly. I've had very limited experience painting covering so, I'm asking if any of you have painted a whole model, how you did it and did it last. \
They chose to cover it in silver which is an authentic scheme but was only used on a few factory full scales. I'm seriously considering painting it before assembly. I've had very limited experience painting covering so, I'm asking if any of you have painted a whole model, how you did it and did it last. \
Last edited by catboater; 01-16-2017 at 06:14 PM.
01-16-2017, 07:48 PM
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Film covered models can be painted with good results. It depends on the finished use as to what prep and paint to use. Glow/Gas need a lot more work whereas an electric model needs less.
Either way take time to iron or shrink down the covering to a smooth, well bonded finish. Wrinkles/looseness that appear after being painted are difficult to get out without damaging the paint.
Wet sand or burnish with scotchbrite pads to a dull finish then clean thoroughly with denatured alcohol or paint thinner. Primer may be needed if applying a light color over a dark one.
For an electric plane, enamal from spray cans work fine, even cheap cans from hardware stores or WalMart. A finish clear coat helps even out the color, especially if blending or doing camo schemes.
A glow/gas finish needs to be more durable. The same enamal can be used but needs a fuel proof finish such as TopFlite Lustercote. It is more expensive but using colors and clear in Lustercote provides a durable, fuel proof finish.
Of course there are other and often better paints to use if cost/space and time are not an issue.
As in any paint job, surface preparation is the key to success. I have used Rustoleum, WalMart house brand, Testors/Pactra and Lustercote. Some are fairly economical, others cost can add up quickly. Others may have better/easier suggestions but the above mentioned process has worked well for me.
Either way take time to iron or shrink down the covering to a smooth, well bonded finish. Wrinkles/looseness that appear after being painted are difficult to get out without damaging the paint.
Wet sand or burnish with scotchbrite pads to a dull finish then clean thoroughly with denatured alcohol or paint thinner. Primer may be needed if applying a light color over a dark one.
For an electric plane, enamal from spray cans work fine, even cheap cans from hardware stores or WalMart. A finish clear coat helps even out the color, especially if blending or doing camo schemes.
A glow/gas finish needs to be more durable. The same enamal can be used but needs a fuel proof finish such as TopFlite Lustercote. It is more expensive but using colors and clear in Lustercote provides a durable, fuel proof finish.
Of course there are other and often better paints to use if cost/space and time are not an issue.
As in any paint job, surface preparation is the key to success. I have used Rustoleum, WalMart house brand, Testors/Pactra and Lustercote. Some are fairly economical, others cost can add up quickly. Others may have better/easier suggestions but the above mentioned process has worked well for me.
01-17-2017, 08:09 AM
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Be wary of Lustercoat. I sprayed white Lustercoat on a T34B and over time parts of it turned from white to a rusty color. I used a glow motor in it. And the parts that turned rusty were surfaces not exposed to glow fuel.
Last edited by oliveDrab; 01-17-2017 at 08:16 AM.
01-17-2017, 01:05 PM
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Gasoline will mar almost all of today's off the shelf paint if not allowed to cure completely. Lustercote works well but needs a long cure time of several weeks. Most off the shelf enamel needs similar.
Used Lustercote on many projects with no issues involving multiple flying seasons. Major ones were a Nosen pink/white Citabria (glow) and Cub yellow cowl that housed a spitting G-62 gasser. Both were painted during warm weather and allowed to cure in the sun for over a week each.
I have seen some discoloration with certain colors of Lustercote during application. Cans had been stored in garage for some time. I now order fresh when I need it rather than leftover stored paint.
The issue I see with streaked or marred paint locally is lack of cure time. Just because it feels dry, it isn't. I use the fingernail test. If you can leave a dent with your fingernail it isn't cured. Most enamel/urethane paint is hard once cured. Feel the painted parts on your new ARF and you will see what I mean.
Used Lustercote on many projects with no issues involving multiple flying seasons. Major ones were a Nosen pink/white Citabria (glow) and Cub yellow cowl that housed a spitting G-62 gasser. Both were painted during warm weather and allowed to cure in the sun for over a week each.
I have seen some discoloration with certain colors of Lustercote during application. Cans had been stored in garage for some time. I now order fresh when I need it rather than leftover stored paint.
The issue I see with streaked or marred paint locally is lack of cure time. Just because it feels dry, it isn't. I use the fingernail test. If you can leave a dent with your fingernail it isn't cured. Most enamel/urethane paint is hard once cured. Feel the painted parts on your new ARF and you will see what I mean.
